Perfect Grade 00 Raiser Gundam Gallery
Completed on 25.01.2010
Read the full work-in-progress and review
Bandai 1/60 Perfect Grade Kit
Color: Blue, white, red and yellow parts unpainted
Internal frame: Tamiya TS-48 Gunship Grey; Armament Parts: Tamiya TS-32 Haze Grey
Miscellaneous parts: Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminium, Tamiya TS-38 Gun Metal
Top Coat: Mr. Hobby Clear Gloss + Clear Flat
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Thank you for looking. Please read the full work-in-progress and review.
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{ 35 comments… read them below or add one }
kewl !!! i’m still working on mine, hopefully can finish soon
Joseph, may I ask you a few questions regarding your PG 00 Raiser?
Do you use air brush or pla plate while assembling your PG 00 Raiser?
Do you satisfy with what the PG 00 Raiser comes with in the box?
Do you install any LED or light into the RAISER?
Can you post a picture of the front box of the PG 00 Raiser(because I saw some PG 00 Raiser come with different front design)?
Thanks and if possible reply to me through email.
Hi, Thanks for your questions, please feel free to ask me anything. For my build, I didn’t use any airbrush/pla plates but I think pla plates are really good to add more detail to your model kit. I really think one should consider buying this kit if they are really big fans of the 00 Raiser. However, to be honest, there are some minor flaws that I’ve discussed in my WIP despite the heavy price tag. As this kit comes with their own LED, I did not add in any LED components. The front picture of the box is already posted in one of the earlier parts of my 00 Raiser WIP.
Hi there Joseph, I love the photos and I’ve got a little question for you. I’m interested in buying the PG 00 Raiser, but on other reviews of the kit it looks like the plastic of the inner frame is very dark grey, almost black. In your photos the frame looks much lighter, which I prefer over the darker color that it looks like it comes as.
Confusing wording aside, my question is: is the color of the frame that nice light grey or does it need some painting?
I really understand what you’re feeling about the darker frame color because I also didn’t like it. I actually sprayed the entire inner frame with a different color (Tamiya Gunship Grey) and I’m really happy with the results. Hope you’ll do the same when you get your 00 Raiser kit!
Ah, alright, I’m gonna need to pick some of that up then! Did you use an airbrush, or does Gunship Grey also come in a spraycan? I don’t have the money for the PG 00 Raiser and an airbrush o_o
I just used a spray can for the grey color. I don’t own an airbrush too but I intend to get one some time in the near future :)
Hi Joseph,
Your web site is impressive. May i check with you, is it true that it is difficult to assemble the clear part if you had assemble the original part in advance? Any advice you would like to share with us?
• The blue, white and yellow parts are unpainted, do you still sand these and put on some clear gloss of clear flat?
• Do you do something to the clear parts like from the sabers?
• In the ‘WIP’ part of the review i saw that you sanded the red parts, what paint did you use on them?
• I have looked for the same paints that you use and found them all expect the mr hobby stuff, where did those?
• And last but not least, do you have any other tips for me when beginning on this model?
Hey Joseph love the review, I’m currently awaiting the arrival of this model. I’ve done a few MG and the RX-78 2 PG myself. Question is when you mentioned you sanded it i think on page 4 of the review, did you mean you filed the nubs/edges or did you use like 1200 sandpaper or different grade sandpaper and sand the entire model?
Thanks for reading! In my opinion, it is pretty hard to actually swap the parts with clear parts because most of the parts are fitted pretty tightly (especially around the joints). It is actually possible but you will risk breaking the original parts in the process of doing so. I wouldn’t recommend swapping the original parts for the clear parts but if you really wanted to, it is better to use the clear parts right from the beginning.
• Yes. Although these parts are unpainted, I still sand them all and put on a gloss coat first, put on any decals and finally a layer of flat coat
• I also sand the nubs of the sabers and then spray a layer of flat/gloss coat on it.
• The red parts are also unpainted in my build
• For the Mr.Hobby Gloss/Flat coat, I bought it in my local hobby store. You can find them online or if not, the Tamiya Clear clear coats also work fine.
• All I can say is enjoy building this model! Don’t try to rush things or you might make mistakes. I think it is also important to make sure that the parts are fitted correctly (especially the joints) to avoid any problems later.
Hi, thanks for reading my review. I sanded almost all the parts with 400 grit sandpaper and worked up to 2000. For some of the smaller parts, I only used a 1000 grit sandpaper to remove any flashes and then smoothened it out with a 2000 grit sandpaper.
what did you use in panel lines? is it pencil? or gundam marker?
I used the Gundam markers and sometimes the Gundam mechanical pencil. I use both depending on the situation.
anotherthing joseph, what did you do to make the blue and red parts lighter? sorry for bothering you :)
^
lighter colors i mean.
Hi, im having troubles with my model holding up the GN sword 3 with the extra trans-am bits, i was wondering if u did anything to strengthen them(chest to arm main joint) or if u have any suggestions that u can help me with?
For my panels lines (on any gunplamo) I usually use the paint-wash technique. dilute paint in water, dip part inside, wipe off excess water/paint, then let the paint set-in on the panel lines…gives it a really authentic, battle-worn effect.
I understand what you mean but the only thing I added was some small parts into the waist joint to avoid the waist from falling backwards. I haven’t tried strengthening the arm joints but I suppose it is already strong enough to hold the GN sword up. Try strengthening the waist joint instead :)
Hi, I didn’t spray the blue and red parts at all. I only sanded them down and sprayed a layer of gloss coat followed by a flat/matt coat. I believe the matt coating will make the parts “appear” lighter.
Hey Joseph
your review convinced me to buy this kit as my first PG and it’s very satisfying!
I’m just wondering if you brush painted the clear blue for the clear parts? and also did you dilute the paint with water or did you use it as is?
Hi, thanks for your comments! Yes, I brush painted the clear blue and diluted them a little with tamiya acrylic thinner, not water!
Joseph, i’m new to this site, but i have a question: If i want to do panel lining and do those decals (those things that add a design to the model), what is the order of doing the steps? I mean i have mr hobby mr super clear gloss, is that OK to use on the gundam? How would using it make it appear? I was thinking about first doing panel line, then using the mr hobby mr super clear gloss, then decals. Is that a safe thing to do?
Hi, i’m just a beginner in painting my gunpla’s. can you tell me the advantages of sanding the parts b4 painting it… one more thing i’d like to ask, did you sand the clear piece on the GN sword 2 before painting it with clear blue? thank you very much
Yes it shouldn’t be a problem to do it that way. I would finish it with a flat/matte coating at the end but its just my personal preference.
Hi, it’s pretty important to sand parts down to remove any nubs, seams or flashes but really the advantage is so that the paint can adhere better on the plastic parts. Basically you want to achieve a nice, smooth surface without any errors so that your paint can stick onto the plastic surface. To check for errors, you can prime your parts using Mr.Surfacer before painting your parts.
For the clear parts, I did not sand them because you might not get a clear part anymore after sanding it down.. Cheers
Hi Joseph, I wanna ask when you do sanding, does the color of the piece change lighter? Would spraying gloss coat make them look the same again?
Hi Joseph,
There’s a few questions I’d like to know. Would sanding leave lighter marks on the parts? And would spraying the gloss coat make them look the same again?
Thank you ^^
hi joseph, what color did you use for your panel lining? is it grey or black gundam marker? how do u achieve a very light panel lining color?
Hi, can a spray can achieve the same effect and quality as an airbrush?
did you just paint (clear blue) the edge of the clear parts on the GN sword 2?
Is it better to do panel lining with a fine point mechanical pencil vs. a Gundam marker. I like the detail of panel lines, but I don’t like how they are dark and obvious. Will a pencil be better, or perhaps panel washing? If I decided to use a Gundam marker, is there a trick to wipe off excess marker. In the past, I used a qtip dipped in paint thinner. It works well to a point, but sometimes you have to wipe hard and it washes the paint off of parts you’re panel lining. I heard an eraser might work. Any tips or suggesstions?
Also, does a gloss paint job or gloss clear coat on a Gundam make it turn out ugly?
Hey Joseph,
First off i just wanted to say great job on the gundam, it looks really good! I just finished building my 00 and I’m looking into the painting process. At first I thought about painting the red/white/blue/yellow, but it seems that just adding a finishing coat will be enough. How did you paint the inner frame? Would there be any problem if I took off all the armor and painted the entire inner frame while it was assembled? I read in a post that doing that could damage the joints and make it really stiff. It would seem really troublesome to have to disassemble the inner frame just to paint it.
Hi Joseph,
Just want to say that your review (and entire website) are amazing. I have one question about the 00 Raiser’s posing ability – when you attach the Side Binders to the GN Drives, are they able to be posed such that the Side Binders are oriented horizontally, and aren’t weighed down by gravity? You do have one picture which makes it seem possible, but in other reviews I’ve seen the Side Binders look too heavy to be posed much.